Deep, smoky and comforting, it blends violet, precious resins and dark leather, like the memory of Russian boots in childhood and opera nights in Paris. Cuir de Russie was created in 1977 by Yuri Gutsatz.
The memory behind Cuir de Russie
Cuir de Russie
Niche floral leather fragrance
Cuir de Russie is a floral leather Eau de Parfum that blends the softness of violet, the warmth of woods and the depth of leather to create an addictive and comforting signature scent. Created in 1977 by independent perfumer Yuri Gutsatz, founder of Le Jardin Retrouvé, it pays tribute to his Russian origins and the memory of his father. This iconic fragrance of the Maison is both elegant, emotional and easy to wear every day.
Key information
Olfactory profile:
- Type of fragrance: Floral leather
- “Scent” in 1 sentence: A luminous and addictive interpretation of violet-infused leather
- Family: Leather, floral, woody
- Intensity: Medium
- Mood: Positive, enveloping emotion, conducive to quality sleep
- Particularity: The only fragrance in the Maison without a garden name, created in homage to Yuri’s father in Russia
Olfactory pyramid:
- Top notes: Lemon, aldehydes, lime, petitgrain
- Heart notes: Violet leaf, violet, cedar, styrax, ylang-ylang
- Base notes: Leather, cade, patchouli, oakmoss, labdanum, sandalwood
Formats & commitment:
- Formats: 3ml, 15 ml, 50 ml, scented candle, diffuser / scented stem
- Main natural ingredients: Cistus essential oil, Virginia cedar essential oil, labdanum resinoid, violet leaves
- Clean beauty: Refillable bottles, organic alcohol, no dyes, no preservatives, no UV filters, cruelty-free
What does Cuir de Russie smell like?
Cuir de Russie opens with a fresh, lightly soapy burst of lemon, lime and aldehydes that immediately brightens the leather accord. The heart reveals a soft violet, nuanced by violet leaves and cedar, while ylang-ylang adds a warm and textured floral touch. In the base, leather blends with cade, patchouli, oakmoss, labdanum and sandalwood to evoke worn Russian boots, leather armchairs and old woodwork, yet always with softness and elegance, never aggressively.
The memory behind Cuir de Russie
“Imagine it is 1924 and you are 10 years old. You have to flee your country – Russia – and your father has to stay behind to protect your family's escape. For years, you are separated and no communication is possible. All you have left is this cherished memory: every evening, your father would come home from the army and hug you, your nose pressed against his leather shoulder strap.”
At the age of 28, you learn that your father died during the siege of your hometown. Your heart is broken, but life must go on. You find peace in your own family, become a perfumer and work for 30 years in a major perfume house. At the age of 61, you decide to break free and found your own perfume house, Le Jardin Retrouvé. The first fragrance you work on is this memory of your father: you call it Cuir de Russie. A note of violet and leather accords as soft and pure as your father's embrace."
Yuri wore Cuir de Russie until the end of his life, and his son Michel still wears it today.
If you are wondering why Cuir de Russie is the only fragrance that does not bear the name of a garden, it is because I, Clara Feder, Yuri's daughter-in-law, did not have the heart to change the name when we revived the House.
Why is this Cuir de Russie different?
Cuir de Russie is designed for anyone who loves elegant leather fragrances, powerful personal stories and the aesthetic of great perfume classics revisited with finesse. It suits both seasoned leather lovers and those discovering this family and looking for something soft, textured and refined.
“Profile” list:
- If you love notes of leather, violet, woods and soft spices.
- If you’re looking for a niche fragrance with a true family story behind it.
- If you appreciate moderate, elegant sillage rather than very loud perfumes.
When to wear Cuir de Russie?
Cuir de Russie reveals its full richness especially in autumn and winter, or during cooler evenings throughout the year. It is an excellent choice for theatre outings, opera nights, dinners, but also for calm moments at home. Thanks to its enveloping and comforting quality, it can become a signature scent for those who love soft and timeless leathers.
Cuir de Russie in your home
Given the strong attachment customers have to this fragrance, Le Jardin Retrouvé has developed Cuir de Russie as a scented candle and a diffuser / reed diffuser. These formats transpose the leather–violet–woody accord into the ambient air, creating a warm, cosy and slightly nostalgic atmosphere. They are perfect for a reading corner, a music evening or a relaxing moment before bed.
What those who wear it say
- Many describe Cuir de Russie as a soft and elegant leather, brightened by violet, both nostalgic and modern.
- It is often mentioned as a perfectly unisex fragrance, with excellent longevity and a measured sillage that stays close to the skin.
- Niche fragrance lovers recommend it as a benchmark leather scent from a historic and independent Maison.
FAQ
What exactly does Cuir de Russie smell like?
Cuir de Russie smells like supple leather wrapped in violet and ylang-ylang, resting on a woody and resinous base. The result is a slightly powdery, gently smoky fragrance with a medium intensity that gradually melts into the skin.
Is Cuir de Russie a unisex fragrance?
Yes, Cuir de Russie was conceived from the beginning as a genderless fragrance. Its floral leather accord suits women, men, and anyone who appreciates elegant and nuanced scents.
Is Cuir de Russie suitable for evenings and relaxation?
Thanks to its comforting character and its “Mood Booster” profile, Cuir de Russie is very well suited for wearing at the end of the day. Its soft sillage, combined with the atmosphere it creates, makes it an ideal ally for moments of calm and relaxation.
On most skin types, Cuir de Russie provides medium to long-lasting wear, with a sillage that lingers for several hours without becoming overpowering. The violet, woods, and leatherous resins remain perceptible in the base, leaving an elegant “second skin” impression by the end of the day.
To fully enjoy Cuir de Russie, spray it from a distance of about 15–20 cm onto pulse points: neck, wrists, inner elbows, or behind the ears. On clean, well-moisturized skin, two to four sprays are enough to achieve a refined floral leather sillage that wears comfortably.
Cuir de Russie is formulated with organic alcohol and contains no added dyes, preservatives, or UV filters. It aligns with Le Jardin Retrouvé’s clean commitment, with a composition designed to be as simple and transparent as possible.
Cuir de Russie bottles are designed to be refillable: they can be opened and filled again, for example by transferring the fragrance from a 50 ml bottle to a 15 ml one. We do not yet offer dedicated refills online, but the bottle design allows for reuse instead of disposal, supporting a more responsible approach.
The Cuir de Russie Eau de Parfum is ideal if you are looking for a floral leather fragrance to wear on the skin as a personal signature. The candle and diffuser bring the same olfactory universe into your home: the candle creates an intimate, warm atmosphere, while the diffuser provides a continuous presence of Cuir de Russie in a room.
The text inspired by Clara Feder on Russian Leather: Ballets Russes, Paris, 1924
The theatre is packed. Diaghilev presents his Ballets Russes. Extravagant Parisians and you are in the front row. You stare wide-eyed at Nijinsky and his fine leather boots. He flies, he spins, he splashes the stage with his scent of ylang-ylang, violet and cinnamon, dressed in an accord of cade wood and styrax. You wish such a moment could last forever.
Discover the Cuir de Russie collection
