Free Mystery Set from €100
Creating a new fragrance and then launching it is an emotional journey. The entire process involves a lot of work, reactions, and feelings. Once the fragrance is launched, the ultimate response comes from customers and critics. When Maxence Moutte, the perfumer at Le Jardin Retrouvé, presented the final version of Violette Kew to the founders, Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz, he drew inspiration from his childhood and combined it with his intention: to create a seemingly innocent violet and transform it into a sensual olfactory surprise, with a second-skin effect. The two founders, who had been closely following the fragrance for a year, were as eager as Maxence to see what would become of this unusual and irresistible scent.
Violette Kew was unveiled at this year's Esxence trade show in Milan, and it took the audience by surprise. Its reveal was kept secret until the launch party, meaning that critics and perfume industry insiders didn't have time to form any preconceived notions.
What surprised the team at Le Jardin Retrouvé was the consistency and number of Fragrantica reviewers and editors who fell in love with the new fragrance.
Matvey Yudov , Elena Prokofieva and Iulia Halatz included Violette Kew in their list of the “Top 6 Best Fragrances from Esxence 2024,” highlighting “niche” fragrances that were exciting yet wearable. Sergey Borisov, one of the brand's long-time editors and connoisseurs, as well as . In a previous article, Sergey Borisov found Violette Kew to be a “bold violet. Even revolutionary in a way.”. Finally, Viktoria Vlasova, editor, perfume history specialist, and researcher, wrote a touching and interesting article on The perfumes of Odette de Crécy in Proust's books, writing that ”I think such intensely violet-scented perfumes would have found their place in Odette's boudoir."
Something surprising emerges from these critiques: the concept of neo-vintage. Take a slightly old-fashioned 19th-century ingredient, such as violet, and entrust it to a talented 20th-century perfumer who is well versed in the art of classic perfumery, and guess what? You're in for a treat, and one of those rare moments when, while recognizing a scent, you feel pleasantly confused.
"Violet fragrances have long been described as archaic and antique. It seems that it is time to reconsider this profile. The new violet from Jardin Retrouvé is very modern and does not evoke the heavily decorated old ladies of local government. The contrast between cool cardamom and warm cumin creates an unusual and very ‘niche’ contrast," explains Matvey Tudov.
“Violette Kew combines two poles at the perfumer's whim: warm and cool, earthy and airy, spicy and sweet, human and elfin, masculine and feminine, and even, with a certain amount of imagination, hard physical labor and Harry Potter-style magic.”
These two poles are cumin and violet. Spicy cumin and fairy-like, airy violets: a horse and an impressive doe in a bottle. Two very different ingredients, both with a powdery character...", writes Sergey Borisov. p> “In creating the spectacular Violette Kew, Maxence Moutte had to overcome the limitation of using 90-99% natural ingredients while also preserving the brand's core identity and DNA. 48-year history.” writes Iulia Halatz, who was present at the presentation of Violette Kew at Esxence 2024.
Maxence Moutte faced numerous creative constraints when he created Violette Kew, one of which was to comply with Givaudan's guidelines to ensure that the fragrance would induce a sense of well-being. After numerous trials, Le Jardin Retrouvé is proud to hold the Givaudan certificate proving the benefits of this unique fragrance.
Fragrantica loves Violette Kew
Comment
Me encantaría saber qué tal huele el perfume de violeta.