- Classical Travel
- OLFACTIVE NOTE
- Floral Leather
The opera hall is packed. Diaghilev is presenting his Ballets Russes. Flamboyant Parisians and you are seated in the front row. Wide-eyed, you watch Nijinsky and his soft leather boots. He leaps, he spins, he fills the stage with the bewitching scent of ylang-ylang, violet, and cinnamon enveloping a harmony of cade wood and styrax. You wish that this moment could last forever.
Inspiration : Ballets Russes, Paris, circa 1912
Very vintage. A tad melancholic. I think it's because of the violets. They feel both powdery and watery at the same time, dry and wet. A lovely contrast against the dark green, firm and very chypre like background. A strong fragrance that speaks of endurance and elegance. The perfect balance between strong and soft. Very unisex.
Currently wearing Cuir de Russie by Le Jardin Retrouvé
This was a wonderful surprise to behold. I was lucky enough to end up getting some samples from Michel Gutsatz and I've been so pleased to wear these. I've been busy the last few days and haven't been able to post about them but my favorite so far is Cuir de Russie. Sprayed on paper I get an intense silage and longevity. On skin I get around 3-5 hours and it stays close to my skin but it's a breathtaking fragrance. You can smell quality and love in this. It's a fantastic old school leather with a twist thanks to the juniper instead of birch.
I get a bit of spice from the cinnamon and there's floral and green notes as well that remind you of a scented leather glove or boot. This is one that you want a bottle of especially if you appreciate history and French perfumery. I am glad the legacy of Yuri Gutsatz is being kept alive for people to discover and cherish.
I have always been very fond of perfumes that are kind of melancholic. I think true beauty always has a little bit of sadness in order to make it unforgettable. When I first smelled Cuir de Russie by Le Jardin Retrouvé I felt that it is exactly what I needed: a powdery and woody leather perfume which I could wear with grace. Leathery perfumes do not always smell good on my skin, as I usually find them too harsh and masculine. In this case, though, the leather note was illustrated differently. Think about a pair of gloves, made from the softest leather you have ever seen. The pair belongs to a beautiful lady who likes to go to the Opera and she has a secret admirer who likes to leave a bouquet of delicate violets in her lodge, just before she arrives to see a new play. As she takes the flowers in her delicate hands, their powdery smell impregnates the leather gloves. Who this man may be? She will never know, but she will always keep violet petals between the pages of her diary.
Cuir de Russie is a perfume meant to be worn when it is cold outside, when the streets are empty and the houses are full. It is meant for people who treasure solitude.
For some reason, I always get cuir (leather) mixed up with cuisse (thigh), so I initially read this as Russian Thigh. Actually, I’m not far off since this scent was inspired by the Russian Ballet. Cuir de Russie reminded me of those wonderful vintage chypres with strong powdery notes muffling the oakmoss in time honoured fashion. Specifically, this reminded me of the day I entered the chypre portal via Balmain de Balmain and never looked back. Cuir de Russie is violets, cinnamon, wood and styrax. The wood and spice gives it muscles and the violets give it delicate fairy wings. This is a stunning juxtaposition.