Near Chandod, on the banks of the river Nerboudda, you walk towards a sacred grove that houses a small Hindu temple. You set up your easel, get out your drawing tools, and start sketching. Suddenly, the powdery notes of a perfume hit you. Sandalwood, patchouli, oak moss and musk, and then, like a gift, coriander, petitgrain and orange blossom. Is it the spirit of the place that is speaking to you?