Top: rhubarb, petitgrain, coriander Middle: tuberose, lily of the valley, clove, jasmine, ylang ylang, neroli/orange blossom Base:frangipani, raspberry, coconut, Peru balsam
The inspiration behind Tubéreuse Trianon
1985: Tubéreuse Trianon burst onto the scene in the middle of the 80s’ the decade of New Romantics, decadence, and statement perfumes. Originally called Tubéreuse, it was reminiscent of the elaborate Trianon gardens of Marie Antoinette at Versailles, perfectly fitting in with 80s excesses. At the hands of Yuri Gutsatz, this was no ordinary tuberose. A touch of rhubarb in the top note and an unexpected note of raspberry brought out surprising facets of this enigmatic, nocturnal flower.
In 2016 when Le Jardin Retrouvé was revived by Michel Gutsatz and his wife Clara Feder, curating a classic collection for the modern palate was crucial to the brand’s success. Yuri’s formulas made for a vast collection and it was difficult to choose just seven. Tubéreuse Trianon has more than earned its rightful place, becoming a consistent bestseller, year in and year out. Beloved of both customers and critics, its testimonials speak for themselves.
Tubéreuse Trianon today
Tubéreuse Trianon is a solar and luminous eau de parfum. With its notes of white flowers, raspberry and coconut this floral and fruity fragrance will make you travel to warmer climates: from a floral facet to creamy, musky and milky base notes. Due to its popularity, there is now a Tubéreuse Trianon candleand a matching 99% natural skincare duo consisting of hand & body milk and a body scrub. Customers report a new depth and longevity when this beloved floral fragrance is layered with our skincare products, not to mention that shimmer of iridescence.
Tuberose was introduced to Europe in the 16th century. It has a characteristic heady nocturnal scent that disappears when the flower is cut. By the 17th century, it had become popular in perfumery. Marie Antoinette called tuberose “Sillage de La Reine” and “Parfum de Trianon” after her beloved Trianon garden at Versailles, known for its intricate landscaped flowerbeds. The 20th century saw tuberose enjoying a renaissance and to this day it is widely used and enjoyed around the world.
Clara Feder’s inspired text on Tubéreuse Trianon: Trianon Gardens, Versailles, France circa 1689
“You are headed towards the Trianon in the Versailles garden where the King has had a profusion of flowerbeds planted. It is evening. You pass by a group of courtiers. A gaze pierces you. In its wake, the heady scent of tuberose, mingled with jasmine and ylang-ylang, and as though veiled, the unexpected trace of raspberry. Your heart just encountered love. It melts.
Text and above image by Clara Feder. Feature image by Kaya Bagamaz for Le Jardin Retrouvé.
Arlette, the lifelong love of her husband Master Perfumer Yuri Gutsatz not only raised three sons and imported fabrics from India but also co-founded Le Jardin Retrouvé. It was Arlette who had the idea, revolutionary at the time, to expand her husband’s fragrance line just about anywhere that made sense to her. From perfumed bath oil to an oatmeal scrub, from scented soaps to fragrant candles, Arlette had her finger on the pulse of customer appetite and was an invaluable asset to the family business.
As well as raising three sons with Yuri and taking care of the marketing, networking and design of Le Jardin Retrouvé, Arlette was also in demand as a consultant, stylist and designer. Pictured is her design for the Dorothée Bis luggage and accessories division. She also worked with Cacharel, Ted Lapidus, Le Printemps, Chantal Thomas and more. She never allowed this side of her career to interfere with the creation of the world’s first niche perfume house. It was Arlette who ensured that Le Jardin Retrouvé reached the shores of Great Britain, the USA, Canada, Japan and countless European countries, to an audience thirsty for French haute perfumery.
A Woman Ahead of Her Time
In the 70s, Arlette orchestrated a collaboration with Agnès B and Le Jardin Retrouvé, a practice that is commonplace today, but was rare in the late 1970s. She attended trade fairs on her own (leaving Yuri in the lab, having driven her there) and was an irrepressible force of nature, organizing textile imports from India whilst being the quintessential heart of family life at the Gutsatz home in Paris. She had a surprisingly modern eye for upcycling, storing reams of Indian fabrics so they could be re-used (and they are, in our fabric pochons) and also acting as archivist, filing and dating every press mention carefully, so that we can refer to them today.
Yuri and Arlette married within a year of meeting and remained devoted to each other until death parted them. Yuri passed away in 2005, leaving Arlette widowed. Their marriage was a meeting of hearts as well as minds, with Yuri still sending her romantic postcards and writing her poems well into his 80s.
Her favourite perfume? A Yuri Gutsatz creation, of course!
Arlette loved the scent of roses so it was little wonder then, that her chosen Le Jardin Retrouvé fragrance was Rose Thé, or Rose Trocadéro as it is known today. With notes of rose, white musk, clove and blackcurrant bud, the eau de parfum so beloved of Arlette smells the same today as it did then, and in keeping with her innovative spirit, we have a matching body scrub, body milk and a fragranced candle.
Arlette passed away on December 12th, 2012, 37 years to the day from when Le Jardin Retrouvé was established. To this day she inspires those who knew her and those who didn’t, and her influence lives on through the pioneering maison de parfum that she and Yuri created in their family home, back in 1975.
The inspiration behind Rose Trocadéro body care products
1975: When Yuri Gutsatz founded the world’s first niche perfumery, he had the invaluable support and creative input of his wife Arlette, herself no stranger to customer trends and appetites. With Arlette as his inspiration, Yuri introduced ancillary products to the Le Jardin Retrouvé product range an approach other brands were yet to adopt. As you can see from ELLE magazine of November 1982 bathroom pamper time was fully embraced by icons such as Jane Birkin. Next to her hairbrush, you’ll see a bottle of Le Jardin Retrouvé perfume.
Fast forward to 2020 and just as the body scrub and lotion launched, so did a pandemic. “Wash your hands” became a mantra worldwide and Le Jardin Retrouvé could play a modest role in helping restore hands constantly scrubbed.
When Michel Gutsatz and his wife Clara Feder revived Le Jardin Retrouvé, they quickly realized that Yuri and Arlette’s ideas were still appropriate. When it came to developing new body products, the flagship Rose Trocadéro fragrance felt like the right choice. Judging by the feedback, the body scrub was successful. It was closely followed by a matching body cream, much to the delight of its fans. Its versatility was quickly spotted: the cream soothes over-washed hands and the scrub acts as the the perfect pre manicure preparation.
Rose Trocadéro returns…in a different form
Every fragrance house needs “its” rose and Le Jardin Retrouvé is no exception. The timeless popularity of Rose Trocadéro (the signature scent of Arlette Gutsatz herself) lent itself perfectly to the cream and scrub. Using 99% natural ingredients, the products were a success with people who used them. When Le Jardin Retrouvé introduced a candle range in 2018, Rose Trocadéro was selected as one of the fragrances used to scent them. Now every bathroom can smell like “a bed of roses.”
Layering a fragrance is a highly effective way in which to extend the lasting power of your perfume throughout the day. Once your skin is cleansed by the scrub and moisturized by the matching cream, a few sprays of Rose Trocadéro eau de parfum will fragrance your every move for that little bit longer.
99% Natural, 100% Beautiful
Our Body Scrub combines the exfoliating properties of biodegradable castor balls with the moisturizing and soothing properties of cucumber seed oil extract. Its fragrance is ideal for an intimate escape moment. After rinsing, your skin will remain subtly scented. Thanks to its creamy texture, your skin will regain suppleness and radiance. Our Body Milk combines cucumber’s powerful moisturizing & soothing properties with our signature Rose Trocadéro fragrance. It will protect the body from dehydration while delicately perfuming it.
1977: Cuir de Russie captures a long-held childhood recollection for perfumer Yuri Gutsatz. It was inspired by the fond memory of his father’s leather boots and strap back in St. Petersburg before Yuri had to flee the country as a child never to see his father again. Cuir de Russie became his talisman and his signature scent, as it still is for his son, Michel. This legendary leather was used for the shoes of Diaghilev’s ballet troupe. Many perfume houses have their own version of Russian Leather, but none quite like that of Le Jardin Retrouvé, with its authentic Russian roots.
When Le Jardin Retrouvé was revived in 2016, Michel Gutsatz and his wife Clara knew that Cuir de Russie had to be a part of the collection. This was a perfume that was very personal to Yuri: from young Russian boy to world class perfumer, it encapsulates the story of his life more than any other fragrance that he made.
Cuir de Russie returns
Since 2016, Cuir de Russie has become a firm customer favourite, enjoying rave reviews from around the world. Praised by men and woman alike, this exceptional eau de parfum allows gentle violets to merge with leather, juniper wood, and the warmth of cinnamon. When Le Jardin Retrouvé introduced a candle range in 2018, Cuir de Russie was selected as one of the quartet of fragrances. Customer demand would accept nothing less!
The intensely personal and nostalgic origins of Cuir de Russie, coupled with the timeless appeal of a Russian leather fragrance, made it an invaluable addition to the Le Jardin Retrouvé collection. It has since become the Le Jardin Retrouvé flagship fragrance and a bestseller, cementing Yuri’s status as a master of his craft.
Clara Feder’s inspired text on Cuir de Russie: Ballets Russes, Paris, circa 1924
“The opera hall is packed. Diaghilev is presenting his Ballets Russes. Flamboyant Parisians and you are seated in the front row. Wide-eyed, you watch Nijinsky and his soft leather boots. He leaps, he spins, he fills the stage with the bewitching scent of ylang-ylang, violet, and cinnamon enveloping a harmony of cade wood and styrax. You wish that this moment could last forever…”
Top: Rose essence, blackcurrant, green notes Middle: Rose absolute, geranium, clove Base: honey,Musk
The early years of Rose Trocadéro
1976: Rose Trocadéro was a fragrance that had personal connotations for Yuri Gutsatz. He was inspired by the fragrances women wore in the 1920s when he was just a boy, and those precious emotions translated into a classic eau de parfum that became the signature scent of his wife and muse, Arlette. Originally named Rose Thé, it was launched the year after Yuri established the world’s first niche perfume house and featured in many popular magazines. Today, the fragrance is the same and has captured the hearts of a new generation who seek the classic French haute perfumery methods at which Yuri excelled.
A t the revival of Le Jardin Retrouvé in 2016, Michel Gutsatz and his wife Clara knew instinctively that no fragrance collection was complete without a flagship rose. Rose Trocadéro brought its own style of French classicism into the twenty-first century.
Rose Trocadéro coming back to life
Since 2016, The eau de parfum is generating a new fan base among perfume lovers who seek a touch of Parisian elegance, just like the women of the 1920s who left such vivid impressions on a future perfumer from St Petersburg. Arlette Gutsatz was never without a bottle.
M Michel and Clara had to choose just seven fragrances to bring back to life from among hundreds of Yuri’s meticulously recorded formulas. Instinctively, they knew the carefully curated collection would need a classic rose. What better fragrance than Rose Thé, the scent Arlette Gutsatz wore and loved?
Clara Feder’s inspired text on Rose Trocadéro: the Trocadéro Gardens
The sun is shining on the Trocadéro Garden – it is a blessing in Paris, even at the end of May. Behind you, the Eiffel Tower, before you, the Chaillot Palace, looking so modern. Suddenly, a woman approaches. She is carrying a huge bouquet of roses and heads towards the Seine with firm strides. When she brushes against you, you shiver with pleasure under the waves of rose so absolute that you but barely notice the trail of blackcurrant bud, lavender, and musk.
Top: rhubarb, petit grain, coriander Middle: tuberose, lily of the valley, clove, jasmine, ylang ylang, neroli, orange blossom Base: Frangipani, raspberry, coconut, Peru Balsam
Yuri & Arlette were making body products long before others followed
Yuri & Arlette Gutsatz were pioneers in their time. Not only did they establish the world’s first niche perfume house in 1975, but they also discerned that there was an appetite for other products too. They recognized the need and desire for a little scented pamper time that went beyond a spray of eau de parfum. The result? A tempting array of products, beautifully fragranced, including soaps, bath oil, incense, candles and even a popular oatmeal scrub, proving once again that Yuri & Arlette, who herself came from the fashion industry, were ahead of their time.
Tubéreuse Trianonmakes a comeback, in a very different way
First came theRose Trocadero body scrub and body milk. Both products were well received and began to grow a fan base. From listening to customer demand, Tubéreuse Trianon was given the pamper treatment too. In December, the body scrub was launched in France’s Biotyfull Box, to rapturous reviews. Now, the duo is complete with the matching body milk. Prerequisite? They had to comply to Le Jardin Retrouvé’s credo and be 99% natural.
” You are headed towards the Trianon in the Versailles garden where the King has had a profusion of flowerbeds planted. It is evening. You pass by a group of courtiers. A gaze pierces you. In its wake, the heady scent of tuberose, mingled with jasmine and ylang-ylang, and as though veiled, the unexpected trace of raspberry. Your heart just encountered love. It melts. “
Inspiration : Trianon Garden, Versailles, France. Words by Clara Feder.
Bree Nichols is the owner and Creative Director of Nature Studios in Brooklyn. Bree creates objects that “take their cues from natural objects touched by the human hand and skewed classics that don’t negate themselves through trends and disposability”.
What comes to mind when you hear the word garden?
The garden is a place of intent versus pure nature which is chaos, but because of its beauty and because of its natural system it has its own rhythms but a garden is curated. It’s full of intent so I have this sort of immediate moving, very classic garden then also just the wild natural gardens and in my brain they kind of go into each other and synthesise.
What is the secret garden that helps you recharge your batteries?
I go to a very specific place. I suppose if I think of the most important garden in my world, I recall my upbringing on the Pacific North West coast. l was always camping on the beaches that you had climb through the forest to get to. I would say that’s the place I go to most often because of what it smells like, which is very important in any garden and of course because of the beauty of it as well
Why does everyone need a secret garden?
It’s incredibly important to make sure that you maintain a place inside yourself or around yourself that helps you find that inner calmness. It helps slough all the outside voices that can confuse you so that you can take your own notions, take your own thoughts and resolve them into what it is that you truly want to manifest in front of you: the object that you want to create, the feeling that you need to have and to be able to remove these noises and those voices is very important.
What is your favourite fragrance from Le Jardin Retrouvé?
My favourite Le Jardin Retrouve fragrance is Bois Tabac Virginia. It’s full of vetiver and smoky wood and it reminds me very much of the campfires of my childhood and how you would take the smell of them with you in your hair. I loved all of those rustic burning smells.
Eau des Délices was created by Yuri Gutsatz seven years after Le Jardin Retrouvé was established and was originally named Véritable Eau de Cologne. It was launched in 1982, a year where fashion was ostentatious and modern technology was starting to take hold, yet Yuri Gutsatz never strayed far from the steadfastness of nature. Eau des Délices is a revitalizing Eau Fraîche that blends the finest citruses with perfumery classics such as orange blossom, lavender and oak-moss. Yuri always said: “A true perfumery line must always include a beautiful classical Eau de Cologne”! Its timeless nature has captured the hearts of countless 21st century fans.
Eau des Délices makes a comeback
When Le Jardin Retrouvé was revived in In 2016, Yuri’s son Michel, along with his wife, the artist and writer Clara Feder, had a challenging task ahead. From among Yuri’s vast and meticulously kept archives, they were to choose just seven fragrances. Eau des Délices was a little different, being an Eau Fraîche rather than an Eau de Parfum. However, it was a gamble that paid off, as critics and customers alike sing its praises, especially as spring temperatures rise.
It was very warm in the Prado Museum that afternoon. “The Garden of Delights”, painted in 1503 by Hieronymus Bosch, intrigues everyone who comes to see it, including you. Suddenly, you hear the sound of a glass that someone dropped. It leaves behind a light, fresh scent: a harmony of lemon, bergamot, mandarin, petitgrain and lavender quenches your thirst, the base notes of cypress, patchouli and oak moss delight you.
Inspiration: The Garden of Delights by Hieronymus Bosch. Words and pictures by Clara Feder. Top photo of vintage Veritable from basenotes.com. Eau des Délices collage by Sebastien Notre.
Verveine d’Eté was created by Yuri Gutsatz and was originally named Verveine Céleste. It was created in 1978: a year that saw the first women astronauts, the One Love Peace Concert in Jamaica and Star Wars break box office records. It was an exciting time to be alive and Verveine Céleste captured that zest for living.
Verveine d’Eté is a revitalizing Eau de Parfum with effervescent notes of fresh green verbena blended seamlessly into an irresistible trail of oak-moss and vetiver.
Verveine d’Eté is Born Again
This beguiling blend of green, aromatic and woody notes is evocative of an afternoon stroll after a massive downpour during springtime. It’s the golden hour and the senses are overwhelmed by citruses, lemon verbena glistens in the dying sun, while vetiver and oak-moss warm up the scent, wrapping up around the freshness like a soft shawl. If this scent was a color, it would’ve been the most gorgeous mint.
You walk in the Summer Garden in the heart of Saint Petersburg. There was a refreshing rainstorm this morning, and you sit on a bench in the French garden designed by Peter the Great. You bend down to pick up a ball dropped by some children. All at once, a perfumed wave of freshness hits you: basil, lemon, bergamot, verbena, and a touch of oak moss. You would so like to take this perfume along with you into the warmer hours of the day …
Ilaria de Moustier is the founder of Happy Healthy Ila,a life coaching system that helps empower women to achieve inner balance and to reach their full potential. Ilaria established her business after six months of solo travel through Asia and after completing a masters in neuroscience and NLP. Ilaria took time to speak to us about how her inner garden is linked to her love of meditation.
What comes to mind when you hear the word garden?
A garden is a place of peace, a place of light, a place of nature, where I imagine nature living according to its own pace, within its own disparities and according to its own balance.
What is the secret garden that helps you recharge your batteries?
There’s something very powerful that I have recently discovered. It’s meditation. It’s literally a moment of pause in a world in which we are very connected to what is outside of us. We have lost the habit of re-connecting to what is inside. So, meditation, simply taking the time to breathe, to look through the window as you drink your tea. A moment of inner thought to search for the right answers.
Why does everyone need a secret garden?
Today we need a secret garden because we have lost the habit, we have lost time. I feel like time doesn’t belong to us: that we always give it to someone or something else. But time isn’t really time, it’s life. So, I think it’s important to have a moment, an activity. Something that allows us to take a step back and go into the unknown that is inside of us.
What is your favourite fragrance from Le Jardin Retrouvé?
It’s Tubéreuse Trianon, for its very warm but also very earthy notes that are close to nature. It’s a fragrance that evokes something round, something complete. It warms my heart and makes me happy.