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Cuir de Russie Notes

Top: Lemon, aldehydes, lime, petitgrain Middle: Violet, violet leaf, cedar, styrax, ylang ylang Base: Leather, cade, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, labdanum, sandalwood

The inspiration behind Cuir de Russie

1977: Cuir de Russie captures a long-held childhood recollection for perfumer Yuri Gutsatz. It was inspired by the fond memory of his father’s leather boots and strap back in St. Petersburg before Yuri had to flee the country as a child never to see his father again. Cuir de Russie became his talisman and his signature scent, as it still is for his son, Michel. This legendary leather was used for the shoes of Diaghilev’s ballet troupe. Many perfume houses have their own version of Russian Leather, but none quite like that of Le Jardin Retrouvé, with its authentic Russian roots.

Cuir de Russie has a soft, warm, sparkling violet and peppery opening.  It feels like it dances on the skin with its warmth, yet cool embrace.  There’s so much movement to the perfume as it whirls and twirls to the delight of my nose.

THE SCENTED HOUND PERFUME BLOG

When Le Jardin Retrouvé was revived in 2016, Michel Gutsatz and his wife Clara knew that Cuir de Russie had to be a part of the collection. This was a perfume that was very personal to Yuri: from young Russian boy to world class perfumer, it encapsulates the story of his life more than any other fragrance that he made.

Cuir de Russie returns

Since 2016, Cuir de Russie has become a firm customer favourite, enjoying rave reviews from around the world. Praised by men and woman alike, this exceptional eau de parfum allows gentle violets to merge with leather, juniper wood, and the warmth of cinnamon. When Le Jardin Retrouvé introduced a candle range in 2018, Cuir de Russie was selected as one of the quartet of fragrances. Customer demand would accept nothing less!

The intensely personal and nostalgic origins of Cuir de Russie, coupled with the timeless appeal of a Russian leather fragrance, made it an invaluable addition to the Le Jardin Retrouvé collection. It has since become the Le Jardin Retrouvé flagship fragrance and a bestseller, cementing Yuri’s status as a master of his craft.

 It’s a breathtaking fragrance. You can smell quality and love in this. It’s a fantastic old-school leather with a twist thanks to the juniper instead of birch. I get a bit of spice from the cinnamon and there are floral and green notes as well that remind you of a scented leather glove or boot. This is one that you want a bottle of especially if you appreciate history and French perfumery.

DOUGLAS G, VERIFIED BUYER

Clara Feder’s inspired text on Cuir de Russie: Ballets Russes, Paris, circa 1924

“The opera hall is packed. Diaghilev is presenting his Ballets Russes.  Flamboyant Parisians and you are seated in the front row. Wide-eyed, you watch Nijinsky and his soft leather boots. He leaps, he spins, he fills the stage with the bewitching scent of ylang-ylang, violet, and cinnamon enveloping a harmony of cade wood and styrax. You wish that this moment could last forever…”

Text and above image by Clara Feder

The masterpiece of Le Jardin Retrouvé’s rereleased collection without any doubt whatsoever is Cuir de Russie…In a stroke of genius it is driven by bluntness and earthiness, pulled down and given a breadth I see in more contemporary suede leathers, giving a tremendous worn-in effect. Combining this with violet flower adds an earthy puff of powder over the body of the composition, reinforced through cinnamon and soft resins.

LIAMSARDEA, OLFACTICS.NET

Rose Trocadéro Notes

Top: Rose essence, blackcurrant, green notes Middle: Rose absolute, geranium, clove Base: honey,Musk

The early years of Rose Trocadéro

1976: Rose Trocadéro was a fragrance that had personal connotations for Yuri Gutsatz. He was inspired by the fragrances women wore in the 1920s when he was just a boy, and those precious emotions translated into a classic eau de parfum that became the signature scent of his wife and muse, Arlette. Originally named Rose Thé, it was launched the year after Yuri established the world’s first niche perfume house and featured in many popular magazines. Today, the fragrance is the same and has captured the hearts of a new generation who seek the classic French haute perfumery methods at which Yuri excelled.

In Rose Trocadéro I have found the comforting smell of my happy memories. The roses from this perfume are bright pink, with dewy petals and bees flying around them. This perfume is in no way mischievous, as some rose-centered perfume maybe, but it is pure and joyful, like the smile of a child.

Adelinne07, fragrantica member

A t the revival of Le Jardin Retrouvé in 2016, Michel Gutsatz and his wife Clara knew instinctively that no fragrance collection was complete without a flagship rose. Rose Trocadéro brought its own style of French classicism into the twenty-first century.

Rose Trocadéro coming back to life

Since 2016, The eau de parfum is generating a new fan base among perfume lovers who seek a touch of Parisian elegance, just like the women of the 1920s who left such vivid impressions on a future perfumer from St Petersburg. Arlette Gutsatz was never without a bottle.

M Michel and Clara had to choose just seven fragrances to bring back to life from among hundreds of Yuri’s meticulously recorded formulas. Instinctively, they knew the carefully curated collection would need a classic rose. What better fragrance than Rose Thé, the scent Arlette Gutsatz wore and loved?

Rose Trocadéro is all about the rose from start to finish, lovely roses, soft yet bright, like the rosy clouds of a perfect sunrise; vibrant but with a luminescence. It isn’t an old-fashioned powdery rose, nor is it a big flashy rose; it’s the ultimate feminine rose, tender and intimate in its beauty, almost suede-like in its plushness.

AARON POTTERMAN FOR CAFLEUREBON

Clara Feder’s inspired text on Rose Trocadéro: the Trocadéro Gardens

The sun is shining on the Trocadéro Garden – it is a blessing in Paris, even at the end of May. Behind you, the Eiffel Tower, before you, the Chaillot Palace, looking so modern. Suddenly, a woman approaches. She is carrying a huge bouquet of roses and heads towards the Seine with firm strides. When she brushes against you, you shiver with pleasure under the waves of rose so absolute that you but barely notice the trail of blackcurrant bud, lavender, and musk.

Text and above image by Clara Feder

The roses are gradually enveloped in musk, rich but not thick, and every time I thought I was wearing the most classic rose-musk perfume, Rose Trocadéro reminded me that rather than just that, it is a character, almost a person in the ethereal body of the scent. Enchanting.

MIRISNA PERFUME BLOG

Tubéreuse Trianon notes:

Top: rhubarb, petit grain, coriander Middle: tuberose, lily of the valley, clove, jasmine, ylang ylang, neroli, orange blossom Base: Frangipani, raspberry, coconut, Peru Balsam

Yuri & Arlette were making body products long before others followed

Yuri & Arlette Gutsatz were pioneers in their time. Not only did they establish the world’s first niche perfume house in 1975, but they also discerned that there was an appetite for other products too. They recognized the need and desire for a little scented pamper time that went beyond a spray of eau de parfum. The result? A tempting array of products, beautifully fragranced, including soaps, bath oil, incense, candles and even a popular oatmeal scrub, proving once again that Yuri & Arlette, who herself came from the fashion industry, were ahead of their time.

A surprisingly soft, tender, almost veil like tuberose fragrance. It smells like a stroll through a garden. There are tuberose flowers somewhere in the distance, and their scent travels to you on the soft, gentle breeze. Very sensual and yet slightly innocent. A refreshing take on tuberose.

– belinda e.k. verified buyer

Tubéreuse Trianon makes a comeback, in a very different way

First came the Rose Trocadero body scrub and body milk. Both products were well received and began to grow a fan base. From listening to customer demand, Tubéreuse Trianon was given the pamper treatment too. In December, the body scrub was launched in France’s Biotyfull Box, to rapturous reviews. Now, the duo is complete with the matching body milk. Prerequisite? They had to comply to Le Jardin Retrouvé’s credo and be 99% natural.

Like falling into a Monet painting

barkingacresstudios, instagram

Inspiration for Tubéreuse Trianon

You are headed towards the Trianon in the Versailles garden where the King has had a profusion of flowerbeds planted. It is evening. You pass by a group of courtiers. A gaze pierces you. In its wake, the heady scent of tuberose, mingled with jasmine and ylang-ylang, and as though veiled, the unexpected trace of raspberry. Your heart just encountered love. It melts. 

Inspiration : Trianon Garden, Versailles, France. Words by Clara Feder.

Our body milk combines cucumber with powerful moisturizing and soothing properties with our signature Tubéreuse Trianon fragrance. It will protect your skin from dehydration, leaving it delicately perfumed.

product information

“It’s incredibly important to make sure that you maintain a place inside yourself or around yourself that helps you find that inner calmness.”

bree nichols, nature is an object

Bree Nichols is the owner and Creative Director of Nature Studios in Brooklyn. Bree creates objects that “take their cues from natural objects touched by the human hand and skewed classics that don’t negate themselves through trends and disposability”.

What comes to mind when you hear the word garden?

The garden is a place of intent versus pure nature which is chaos, but because of its beauty and because of its natural system it has its own rhythms but a garden is curated. It’s full of intent so I have this sort of immediate moving, very classic garden then also just the wild natural gardens and in my brain they kind of go into each other and synthesise.

What is the secret garden that helps you recharge your batteries?

I go to a very specific place.  I suppose if I think of the most important garden in my world, I recall my upbringing on the Pacific North West coast. l was always camping on the beaches that you had climb through the forest to get to. I would say that’s the place I go to most often because of what it smells like, which is very important in any garden and of course because of the beauty of it as well

Why does everyone need a secret garden?

It’s incredibly important to make sure that you maintain a place inside yourself or around yourself that helps you find that inner calmness. It helps slough all the outside voices that can confuse you so that you can take your own notions, take your own thoughts and resolve them into what it is that you truly want to manifest in front of you:  the object that you want to create,  the feeling that you need to have and to be able to remove these noises and those voices is very important.

What is your favourite fragrance from Le Jardin Retrouvé?

My favourite Le Jardin Retrouve fragrance is Bois Tabac Virginia. It’s full of vetiver and smoky wood and it reminds me very much of the campfires of my childhood and how you would take the smell of them with you in your hair.  I loved all of those rustic burning smells.

Watch Bree’s interview here

Eau des Délices notes:

Top: Lemon, bergamot, tangerine, verbena, petit grain, orange Middle: Lavender, neroli, orange blossom, clary sage Base: Moss, patchouli, vetiver, musk

The Early Years of Eau des Délices

Eau des Délices was created by Yuri Gutsatz seven years after Le Jardin Retrouvé was established and was originally named  Véritable Eau de Cologne. It was launched in 1982, a year where fashion was ostentatious and modern technology was starting to take hold, yet Yuri Gutsatz never strayed far from the steadfastness of nature. Eau des Délices is a revitalizing Eau Fraîche that blends the finest citruses with perfumery classics such as orange blossom, lavender and oak-moss. Yuri always said: “A true perfumery line must always include a beautiful classical Eau de Cologne”! Its timeless nature has captured the hearts of countless 21st century fans.

Eau des Délices manages to remain fresh and sparkly. It is very refreshing and I love to wear it in days when I miss summer, or when I feel stressed and I need something happy to uplift my mood.”

– adelina t, verified buyer

Eau des Délices makes a comeback

When Le Jardin Retrouvé was revived in In 2016, Yuri’s son Michel, along with his wife, the artist and writer Clara Feder, had a challenging task ahead. From among Yuri’s vast and meticulously kept archives, they were to choose just seven fragrances. Eau des Délices was a little different, being an Eau Fraîche rather than an Eau de Parfum. However, it was a gamble that paid off, as critics and customers alike sing its praises, especially as spring temperatures rise.

This all the fresh zestiness you want from a cologne with quadruple the lasting power. This green, invigorating fragrance will suit anyone and is perfect for slicing through the sultry heat of summer. Definitely a suits-everyone fragrance.

betty noir, fragrantica member

It was very warm in the Prado Museum that afternoon. “The Garden of Delights”, painted in 1503 by Hieronymus Bosch, intrigues everyone who comes to see it, including you. Suddenly, you hear the sound of a glass that someone dropped. It leaves behind a light, fresh scent: a harmony of lemon, bergamot, mandarin, petitgrain and lavender quenches your thirst, the base notes of cypress, patchouli and oak moss delight you.

Inspiration: The Garden of Delights by Hieronymus Bosch. Words and pictures by Clara Feder. Top photo of vintage Veritable from basenotes.com. Eau des Délices collage by Sebastien Notre.

Spritzing it is truly like a breath of fresh air in a countryside citrus grove without actually being there. The bergamot here is enveloping and soon gives way to orange/neroli which projects beautifully throughout the mid notes.

AARON POTTERMAN FOR CAFLEUREBON.COM

Verveine d’Eté notes:

Top: Lemon, verbena, petit grain Middle: Verbena, lavender, basil Base: Vetiver, oakmoss

The Early Years of Verveine d’Eté

Verveine d’Eté was created by Yuri Gutsatz and was originally named Verveine Céleste. It was created in 1978: a year that saw the first women astronauts, the One Love Peace Concert in Jamaica and Star Wars break box office records. It was an exciting time to be alive and Verveine Céleste captured that zest for living.

Verveine d’Eté is a revitalizing Eau de Parfum with effervescent notes of fresh green verbena blended seamlessly into an irresistible trail of oak-moss and vetiver.

This scent I can’t get enough of : verbena, basil, lemon and bergamot – Verveine d’Eté from Le Jardin Retrouvé

-NATURELLEMENT_LYLA, INSTAGRAM

Verveine d’Eté is Born Again

This beguiling blend of green, aromatic and woody notes is evocative of an afternoon stroll after a massive downpour during springtime. It’s the golden hour and the senses are overwhelmed by citruses, lemon verbena glistens in the dying sun, while vetiver and oak-moss warm up the scent, wrapping up around the freshness like a soft shawl. If this scent was a color, it would’ve been the most gorgeous mint.

I like it a lot. The notes are all treated with care, and there’s a nice green freshness. As it dries, it grows on me even more, developing into a grassy citrus that, unlike modern citruses, does have a bit of staying power..

LORDZOOT, REDDIT

You walk in the Summer Garden in the heart of Saint Petersburg. There was a refreshing rainstorm this morning, and you sit on a bench in the French garden designed by Peter the Great. You bend down to pick up a ball dropped by some children.  All at once, a perfumed wave of freshness hits you: basil, lemon, bergamot, verbena, and a touch of oak moss. You would so like to take this perfume along with you into the warmer hours of the day …

Inspiration: Summer Garden St. Petersburg. Words and pictures by Clara Feder. Top photo of vintage Verveine Céleste by auparfum.com. Verveine d’Eté “Liquid Gardens” by Kaya Bagamaz

image by Kaya Bagamaz

Here verbena is presented to us with a very green assemblage of herbs that evokes the smell of bunches of freshly cut plants still wet with morning dew. The mix here reminds me of a wonderful verbena soap coupled with classic Eau de Cologne all in one. It embodies qualities that anyone could wear anywhere at any time.

LYDIANE F, VERIFIED BUYER

A garden is a place of peace, a place of light, a place of nature, where I imagine nature living according to its own pace, within its own disparities and according to its own balance.”

ILARIA DE MOUSTIER, HAPPY HEALTHY ILA

Ilaria de Moustier is the founder of Happy Healthy Ila, a life coaching system that helps empower women to achieve inner balance and to reach their full potential. Ilaria established her business after six months of solo travel through Asia and after completing a masters in neuroscience and NLP. Ilaria took time to speak to us about how her inner garden is linked to her love of meditation.

What comes to mind when you hear the word garden?

A garden is a place of peace, a place of light, a place of nature, where I imagine nature living according to its own pace, within its own disparities and according to its own balance.

What is the secret garden that helps you recharge your batteries?

There’s something very powerful that I have recently discovered. It’s meditation. It’s literally a moment of pause in a world in which we are very connected to what is outside of us. We have lost the habit of re-connecting to what is inside. So, meditation, simply taking the time to breathe, to look through the window as you drink your tea. A moment of inner thought to search for the right answers.

Why does everyone need a secret garden?

Today we need a secret garden because we have lost the habit, we have lost time. I feel like time doesn’t belong to us: that we always give it to someone or something else. But time isn’t really time, it’s life. So, I think it’s important to have a moment, an activity. Something that allows us to take a step back and go into the unknown that is inside of us.

What is your favourite fragrance from Le Jardin Retrouvé?

It’s Tubéreuse Trianon, for its very warm but also very earthy notes that are close to nature.  It’s a fragrance that evokes something round, something complete. It warms my heart and makes me happy.

Watch Ilaria’s interview here

Every time I go to my back garden to sit for a while, I feel a lot of energy from the aura of heaven and earth. The garden’s a place of relaxation for me.

JULIET GUO, SANDRIVER

Juliet Guo is the founder of luxury independent cashmere brand, Sandriver.  Working within an ethos of sustainability and with an artisanal eye for design, Juliet is celebrating her twentieth year as a successful businesswoman. Sandriver continues to nurture business relationships at all levels from creators and clients, to the highly valued community herdsman who supply her authentic source materials. Juliet took time out from her day to talk to Le Jardin Retrouvé about what gardens mean to her.

What comes to mind when you hear the word garden?

Whenever I talk about the word “garden”, I think of the special pleasure I feel in my body and mind. Every time I go to my back garden to sit for a while, I feel a lot of energy from the aura of heaven and earth. The garden is a place of relaxation for me.

What is the secret garden that helps you recharge your batteries?

A garden is a nurturing place for women who are starting their own business. It is like a nurturing place for body and soul. It can take me from the fierce competition into a quiet state. Also, it allows me to experience more of the energy that nature gives me. We can be more peaceful; we can be quieter. We can have more of our own thoughts bursting out so it gives me more energy.

Why does everyone need a secret garden?

In fact, the secret garden for each person it is the place where we cultivate our body and soul. When we feel tired, when we feel exhausted, we go to see the plants to see the different plants in the garden gloriously blooming.

What is your favourite fragrance from Le Jardin Retrouvé?

My favourite fragrance is Rose Trocadéro. It gives me the same feeling as when I am walking in the streets of Paris. Every note of this city that has accumulated, it gives me a lot to think about. When I returned to Shanghai, I felt that the city of Shanghai has a natural link with Paris. This perfume is a link between us all over the world. It’s a link to the journey that each of us takes.

Watch Juliet’s interview here

Citron Boboli Notes:

Top: Lemon, Lime, Orange, Galbanum Middle: Cinnamon, Clove, Black pepper, Geranium Base: Vanilla, Musk

The Early Years of Citron Boboli

Citron Boboli was created by Yuri Gutsatz at his home in Cour Jasmin, Paris and was originally named Citron Poivré. It was created in 1977: a year that saw culture and modern life blend in new ways. Baryshnikov brought ballet to the television, The Georges Pompidou Centre was opened and Apple launched its first computer. Amongst this blend of old and new, Citron Poivré was born.

Citron Boboli is an energizing eau de parfum with notes of citrus and warm spices: an original and comforting blend. It will transport you into Yuri’s footsteps, when he lived in India and discovered the richness of Indian aromas and plants. Clove, pepper and lemon will transport you between the spices of Asia and the citrus groves of Italy.

In this warmer weather, it’s a real joy to wear. It’s refreshing and “fizzy”. However, with the spiciness, I think this could be a citrus for cool weather as well.”

-Eaumg blog

Citron Boboli is Born Again

In 2016, Yuri’s son Michel, along with his wife, the artist and writer Clara Feder, had the difficult task of selecting just seven fragrances from Yuri’s vast and meticulously kept archives. The chorus of approval from perfume lovers is proof that Citron Boboli deserved its place upon the stage once more, bringing a 1970s fragrance to a new and appreciative Twenty First century audience.

Citron Boboli makes you want always more. Even after rising to the highest point, albeit tired, I just want to get down and start climbing again. Gorgeous perfume!

Cassiano, Fragrantica member

After visiting the Palazzo Pitti, you blithely make your way to the heights of the Boboli Gardens. The view of Florence is stunning, but a grotto on your right draws you with its freshness. Just at the entrance, a statue is decked with beautiful lemons. Are they real? Are they virtual? Why can you smell the fragrance of Italian lemon, petitgrain, bitter orange and galbanum? And that hint of black pepper and cloves, where does it come from?

Inspiration: Boboli Garden, Florence, Italy. Words and pictures by Clara Feder. Top photo of vintage Citron Boboli bottle by cheeky24.exblog.jp

Finding a scent that is both fresh and spicy, suitable for both winter and summer and for both sexes isn´t that easy. But Le Jardin Retrouvé’s Citron Poivré manages to combine all of that in one perfume

Rebella, Fragrantica member

I think there’s something really beautiful about knowing you have an inner space that belongs to you and that you can visualise that.

Melissa Unger

Melissa Unger is an artist, writer and creative director whose projects  have been featured around the world in ELLE Magazine, Marie Claire, New York Magazine, EL PAIS and Die Zeit, to name but a few. She is the founder of the unique Seymour + in Paris, a place where the general public used to disconnect from the “technology-tether” of modern life: a spa for the mind. Now she lives in Brooklyn, working on developing Seymour Projects. Melissa was the perfect choice to talk to us about inner gardens and the feeling of sanctuary.

What comes to your mind when you hear the word garden?

For me what comes to mind when I hear the word garden is community. I love being in gardens because it’s a non-verbal way of communing so what I love about gardens is that there’s a couple of the senses that we use to engage in everyday life that are not there, so there’s no language, there’s no energy from another person to navigate. There’s just a really calming aspect of it for me. I also love to see all the different plants and all the different flowers cohabiting peacefully.

watercolour by Melissa Unger, from unger_xx, instagram

What is the secret garden that helps you recharge your batteries?

The way that I really recharge the most and connect to myself is through my watercolours which I do every morning. I started doing it two years ago and they’re really a way of me being able to connect with my feeling states rather than my thinking states, so it gets me out of my head and I get into this beautiful playful flow space with them.

Why does everyone need a secret garden?

You don’t know your own north when you’re around people or other circumstances. Things can easily get pulled in different directions and I think there’s something really beautiful about knowing you have an inner space that belongs to you and that you can visualise that. So inner gardens, when we talk about creating havens and spaces that we go to when we’re outside of ourselves like monasteries or churches or whatever, you can totally create that visual in your imagination and place that space within yourself, in your heart and your stomach.

What is your favourite Le Jardin Retrouvé fragrance?

I love Rose Trocadéro. I’ve had a love affair with roses for six or seven years now. I don’t know why I have such an affinity for this flower but it’s really been softening me and it’s really very healing. So, a fragrance like Rose Trocadéro I’m completely drawn to and I also like its other notes. I just feel like it’s perfect. It’s not just sweet, it reminds me of imagination and creativity.

Follow Melissa on Instagram .